RV Appliance Wattage Chart
Last updated: September 3, 2026
Quick answer
The two numbers that matter: running watts (continuous load) and starting watts
(the brief surge when compressors and motors start — up to 3× running for an RV air conditioner).
Everything else is bookkeeping.
12-volt DC loads (directly off the battery)
| Load | Typical draw | Start / peak | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| RV furnace fan (Atwood/Dometic 25k–35k BTU) | 2–4 A | 6–8 A | Rated 1.8–2.9 A on spec plates; measured running draws commonly 3–4 A; brief blower start spike |
| 12V compressor fridge | 2–6 A avg | 8–12 A | Average depends on compressor duty cycle and ambient temperature |
| LED lighting (whole RV) | 0.5–3 A | — | Per bulb 0.1–0.5 A; actual draw depends on how many are on |
| Water pump (Shurflo class) | 4–7 A | up to 12 A | Only runs while flowing; duty cycle typically a few % |
| Vent / ceiling fan | 2–4 A | 5 A | Speed dependent |
| LP gas detector / CO detector | 0.05–0.1 A | — | Runs 24/7 — meaningful over days |
| 12V TV / electronics | 1–3 A | — | Via DC or an inverter |
| Roof vent fan (max speed) | 3–5 A | 6 A | High speed with load |
120-volt AC loads (shore power, generator, or inverter)
| Appliance | Running watts | Starting watts | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Air conditioner, 13,500 BTU | 1,300–1,800 W | 2,750–3,000 W | ≈13 A run / ≈22 A start; Micro-Air guidance: 1,500 W run, 2,800 W start |
| Air conditioner, 15,000 BTU | 1,500–2,000 W | 3,000–3,600 W | Needs ~3,000 W+ generator without soft start |
| Microwave, 1,000 W cooking class | 1,300–1,500 W | — | Input watts exceed cooking watts — check the label |
| Coffee maker | 800–1,000 W | — | |
| Electric kettle | 1,000–1,500 W | — | Boils fast, drains batteries fast |
| Toaster | 800–1,200 W | — | |
| Hair dryer | 1,200–1,800 W | — | The classic 30 A breaker-tester |
| Residential fridge | 200–400 W | 900–1,200 W | Compressor start surge; often runs only on shore/genset |
| RV 2-way fridge (electric mode) | 300–400 W | — | Absorption element is heat — heavy for its size |
| Electric water heater element | 1,000–1,440 W | — | Gas mode uses propane instead |
| Space heater (small) | 750/1,500 W | — | Resistive load; see our runtime math before running on battery |
| TV + streaming stick | 80–150 W | — | |
| Laptop + phone charging | 50–150 W | — |
How to use this table: add the running watts of everything that shares a power source, then make sure that source also survives the largest single start surge. The generator size calculator and inverter size calculator do this arithmetic for you.
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Why ranges, not single numbers
Two identical-looking appliances can differ by 50% in real draw depending on model, age, and line voltage. Charts that promise one number are guessing. The ranges here come from manufacturer sizing guidance and spec plates (sources below); for your rig, the nameplate on each appliance is the final authority — and for budgeting, the middle of the range is the honest estimate.
Sources:
- Air-conditioner figures: Micro-Air published sizing guidance (microair.net) and community measured values (≈13 A run / ≈22 A start on 120 V).
- Furnace fan figures: Atwood/Dometic Hydro Flame spec plates (1.8–2.9 A rated by model; 8535-IV service manual via PDX RV Wholesale) plus common owner measurements.
- All other values: typical nameplate ranges across consumer appliance classes. Your device's label always wins.
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